kaufmans



' by cloth, by any of the known means of embossing or depressing andfl'aising by ineans of dios.

glatten ,tetes atim't @ffice A. KA'UFMANfN, or NEW Your,A N.- Y.

` Letters Patent No. 61,669; dated January 29, 1867.

IMPROVEMENT IN FABER. GOLLARS,

TO ALL WHOM IT MAY CONCERN:

Be it known that I, A. KAUFMANN, of thecity, county, und Stato of New York,`have invented a new and useful Improvement in Paper Collars, Cuffs, ctc.; and I- do hereby declare that the following is afull, clear, and -exactdescription thereof, which will enable others skilled in the art to mnkeand usc'the same, reference being had to the accompanying drawing, forming part of this specification.

The drawing represents a perspective View of a collar made according to this invention..

My invention relates 'tothat class of wearing apparel known as collars and cuifs, etc., and consists 1n producing the same from paper, or paper having cloth combined with it for the purpose of imparting strength, so embossed and tinted that a close imitation of the article used in this manufacture, and known as cambric lace, is achieved. Articles of this class of apparel are extensively worn by ladies, and are usually made of thread, lace, muslin, cambrie, and linen embroidered to snit the taste and fancy of the trade and consumer, and of cambric lace, or' cambric having a centre of fine cambric lace upon which designs are embroidered. This latter manufacture is extensively sold and worn, and is much sought by the trade and consumer for its beau`ty, inish, and durability, it 'not having the'objection which is urged against theufin'eI lace collars, etc., but instead of losing shape and beauty by the process of laundrying, is, by reason of'its protecting border of ambric or llinen, preserved in form and beauty while undergoing washing-and ironing. This makes it a desirable article of apparel, and hence the extent of its use. This latter manufacture is what I have adapted paper to the manufacture of, and, by the use of certain means, perfectly imitated. I will now proceed to more minutely describe the article as produced in woven fabric, that the scope of my invention will b'e more perfectly understood.

The article known as cambi-ic lace derives its name from Chambrey, where it was'rst made, and is aknown article of commerce. It is a thin, white, translucent fabric, made from linen or flax, and exceeds in 'quality the finest linen, or, in other words, is theadvance step from the finest linen toward the nest lace, and for its ineness of texture and beauty of finish is much sought a'ndvused in the manufactureof ladies goods. It has been for years extensively used in the manufacture of collars and articles of like character, and at presentcforms at least on e-half of the collars worn by ladies. The collars known in commerce as cambric lace collars, which to such an extent have superseded lace,l are made of this material by the process known as insertion, that is to say, cambric lace is inserted within the body of a collar whichis composed of linen, cotton, cambric, or other fabric having suihcient body, and secured to and between thc edges thereof by sewing. This cambric lace centre, shown in the drawing at B, is there embroidered to .suit the fancy, and forms an article of much beautyand vfinish. As thus composed it will be observed that the body of the article, that is, the portion which surrounds the,cambric dace centre, is composed of two. thicknesses, each of which is equa-l to about twice the thickness of lthe central cambric lace portion this makes the article firm and strong, and permits and protects the use of the thin tissue cambric lace centre.` In general appearance upon its face, it seems to be a thickV linen-collar with its central portion shaved or ground down tothe thinnest possible state, and artistically Ornamente-mor, in other words, it is a fine linen collar, with a translucent centre, upon which the ornamentations occur. It is a wella -known principle of lightand shade, that when :rcolorless body is reduced to a thinness to become translucent,

a blue or blue brown tint is imparted to its appearance; this is the case in the article described, and is the prim ciple`upon which my invention is founded, the object being to produce this translucent appearance toapor'tion of a collar, by imparting to such Yportion a slight tinting of a blueish or'blueish brown cast, while other portions are left in thgiunaturalor white state. The substituting. and adaptation of paper to the manufacture of collars and other like articles of wearin g apparel are well known to commerce, and their chcapness has already made them one of its principal articles of sale. Paper collars having cloth combined with the paper, others made entirely of paper of long fibre, ornamented by printed and embossed devices, others with an enamelled face, others both embossed and perforated to imitate lace, and others embossed, perforated, and having printed devices upon them, have long been manufactured. My improved article of manufacture is produced from paper, or paper strengthened The main portion of the collar is ornamented with raised designs, or not, as may be desired, and haslines of stitching embossed at proper points to represent the stitching of the corresponding parts in the linen collar, and is also provided with button-holes or tabs by which to secure it to the apparel. To imitate the cambric lace inserted portion 'of the textile collar, that portion of the paper composing my collar is depressed below the place of the main portion and embossed and perforated `to imitate the various designs of embroidery, or it 'may be embossed and perforated without being depressed, and further, that the translucent appearance'eiristing in the textile collar may be closely imitated, is tinted with a faint color on all parts of its face except that occupied by the embossdparts. My improved manufacture may also be formed' from pulp pressed up in dies. It will be scenthat the central portion is thinner than the surrounding main portion of the collar, and moreover, that' the imitation shall be more complete', the raised portions of the embossing on the central part extend no higher than the face of the main portion of'thee'ollar, While the embossed portions of the' main' part are raised from itsfaee as an ordinary embossing. Thefeature of' this invention is the close imitation of the translucent portion of the cambric lace collar attained by the faint tinting, the parts not embossed corresponding to that portion of atextile collar. Thus an article is produced in paper, which is not easily distinguished fromthe expensive textile collar, at a much reduced cost, andrsuperior in Wear and appearance. I am aware of the patent granted April 26; 1859, to W. E. Lockwood, in which is described a paper collar embossed, perfora'tml, and printed, but in this case the printing is-appliedin devices to the face of the collar to improve its appearance or imitate printed muslims, `while I, instead of applying distinct devices in colors, cover theuvholesurface'in contradistinction to his invention, for the purpose of imitating a fabric rather than the devices upon the fabric. Y I do not claim anything set forth inthe patent before cited. A

But what I desire tov secure by Letters Patent, isy A new articlejof manufacture, a paper collar, cuff, or' similar article of wearing apparel, embossed and per- 'fforated, that portion which imitates the 'cambric lace portion ofa textile article being tinted throughout its face, except where it is embossed, substantially as described and for the purpose set forth.-

I A. KAUFMANN.

Witnesses: A

WM. F. McNAMARA, ALEX. F. ROBERTS. 

